(04/14/06)

Located near Target in a strip mall just off I-84 in the western Hudson Valley, Barnstormer BBQ in Newburgh is easy to miss among the fast food chains and other eateries in the area. But it's a comfortable oasis, with big booths, checkerboard tablecloths and cool old soda signs unmistakably more real than similar ones you'd see in a BBQ chain. And the barbecue is real, too.

There wasn't a ribs and pulled pork combo, so on a lunchtime visit I decided to get 6 ribs, with fries and cole slaw. The ribs were impressive, a massive half rack with the chine bone intact. The lusty meat was lightly coated with sauce, allowing the pork flavor to shine through. They were slightly smoky, with no smoke ring, though the exposed bone ends looked legit. A little cold in a few spots and a little fatty in spots, but very good. There was no sauce on the table, but these ribs were wet enough and good enough not to need any. 

The sides were both excellent: the hand cut fries and tangy slaw both appeared to be home made.

Service was a little slow, but not a problem.

I'll have to check them out at night, possibly during their Wednesday night Chicken-and-Rib-O-Rama, where you get all you can eat for $20 (and all the Bud or Coors Light you can drink for an extra $3).

The bottom line: one of the best wet ribs I’ve come across and enough clues to hint that this might be great place.