Denver Grille, at the end of a small strip mall at the intersection of routes 122 and 146A, looks like a converted pizza shop. It's a counter operation with just a few tables. The place is a mess, with a hodgepodge of boxes and unused items taking up what could be usable space. Grease can be smelled when you first walk in, seen on the screen separating the grill from the dining area, felt when you pick up a salt or pepper shaker, and tasted when you bite into a rib.
It seems like wings are the main attraction here; the only ribs are babybacks. I got a half rack, choosing hot as the sauce and cole slaw and onion rings as the sides. Ribs were served on a foil-lined plate, literally already falling off the bone, with a lot of tangy sauce topped with a good shake of cayenne. I liked this approach to seasoning, but wasn’t impressed by the meat, which probably never saw the inside of a smoker. Onion rings were the puffy kind and just OK. Cole slaw was the supermarket variety. No cornbread.
The bottom line: This is the kind of place that's decent if you live a block away and want a quick takeout order every now and then. Who knows, maybe the wings are great. But these aren't my kind of ribs.