Pull into a spacious parking lot led by the beacon of an old time neon sign that illuminates as it forshadows the retro interior of shiny reds and whites. Burger Boys is an attempt at a step back in time, similar to chains Johnny Rockets and Five Guys—they even mimick the checkerboard tile—but this is not a chain. It's an over-the-counter operation that does double duty with burgers and ice cream.
As I learned from a Phantom Gourmet video profile of Burger Boys (see link below), the burgers are cooked on a flat top here, not only moistened using their own fat but griddled over a thin layer of butter applied beforehand. They call you when your order's ready and you take it to one of the vinyl swivel stools or booths. Photos on the wall are burgers and ice cream, but they look generic.
This seeded bun is soft, fresh and a workingman's fusion of the American classic with light brioche, pretzel and kaiser. It would be a highlight of the burger even if served as is, but it's liberally coated with butter and grilled.
The beef is a drop-off from both the quality of the bun and the expectation set by the video. The color is gray and the crusting is nonexistent, much like a McDonald's patty. The construction is thin and the texture is dry and rubbery, more like a Burger King patty. Ah, the worst of both worlds and nothing like the burgers depicted in the video and on the walls.
Bacon rounded into a crisp disc fit the patty nicely, though the thinness made its pleasing flavor negligable. Caramelized onions and cheddar were without fanfare but both handled well.
The Fries (and such)
Fries had skins and looked handcut, but felt and tasted very processed. Not much potato flavor.
The Bottom Line
Really nice bun, okay toppings and disappointing beef make Burger Boys worth visiting more for the manufactured nostalgia than the burger. Granted, it was just one visit, so I might have caught them on a bad day, but I suspect otherwise. Phoiled again.
Yelp reviews of Burger Boys
Phantom Gourmet profile of Burger Boys
Urbanspoon reviews of Burger Boys
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