(04/08/11) (09/08/11) (10/21/11)
The Boynton is a decades-old joint on Highland Street, its legendary grizzled past mellowed over time. The space is deceptively large, with a few different dining rooms and a large bar area with well over a dozen stools and a trio of large screen TVs. Though hardly squeaky clean, the Boynton is respectable enough that families would feel just as at home as the after-work drinking crowd. If you're worried about finding metered parking, fear not: there are two complimentary parking lots out back.
There's nothing distinguishing here, just your basic whitebread bun with sesame seeds.
Grill marks reveal the cooking method here, but on three separate visits I came away thinking "melted fat" (that's a compliment). So even though the patty is grilled, it has that same glistening exterior that a griddled patty has when it's done right. There's not much surface personality in terms of crusting or seasoning, yet somehow this burger is not lacking in flavor. Inside, the requested medium rare was hit all three times, allowing juices to run freely. There's a nice mouthfeel to the meat, which is probably just a basic chuck. I don't want to liken it to the classic char grilled flavor whose bottom end is Burger King, but I keep coming back to the "melted fat" that gives this burger its mojo.
Bacon came out a little underdone one time but on two other tries was fine. Like the bun and patty, there's nothing special here but it works. Cheese is just at the point of melted.
The Fries (and such)
Here we get a big upgrade over the humdrum, with a duo of fries and onion rings—and this is standard procedure, not a special request. The fries are further upgraded in that they're really not fries at all but rather fried potato wedges, shaped like apple slices. They need some salt, but the dual texture of crisp outside and fluffy inside is fine. Onion rings are the bumpy flaky kind I like, and cut thick enough so that you get a good amount of both onion and crispy batter.
The Bottom Line
It's not that the burger at the Boynton is great—it's not. But it's so much better than expectation, with execution and service that defy the all-purpose aspect of a place that with a squint of an eye could be one of a dozen different chains. Again, it's not. I wouldn't make a special trip to hit the Boynton, but I probably wouldn't turn it down if in the area.
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