Burger Review

Wheelhouse

 

category: Boston burgers, Financial district

63 Broad Street

Boston, MA 02109
(617) 422-0082

www.wheelhouseboston.com

 

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Review Date: 10/22/15

Visit Dates: (10/21/15)

 

 

 

The Place

 

Open only for weekday breakfast and lunch, Wheelhouse is a burger option best explored if you either work or have business in Boston's Financial District. It's a small but inviting space with wood floors, aged wood on the walls, a few New England Patriots homages and some antique furnishings. You order over a counter and eat on your choice of stools facing a wall or the front window, with a narrow wood counter as your tabletop.

 

Several different burgers are available, most at $7.50, with sides a la carte. They also have a turkey burger, a lamb burger, a veggie burger, a pulled pork sandwich and a meatball sandwich. In the morning, it's griddled pastries, bagels and breakfast sandwiches.

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The Choice

 

I go with the Pimento (bacon, bread & butter pickles, pimento cheese spread).

 

 

 

 

 

The Bun

 

Here it's as simple as it gets, with an ordinary but fresh bun. Toasted and not buttered, it has the softness of a potato roll but the flavor of what you'd see at McDonald's or a supermarket. For whatever reason, I get a diner vibe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Beef

 

There are no special blends; Wheelhouse uses 90/10 chuck, cooked on a flat top with part of the session under a dome. Inexplicably, the burger is ready within minutes. It turns out to be two 2.5-ounce patties, jumbled and crusty outside, aggressively seasoned (both visible and tastable), done to the requested medium rare (all cooked, all pink) and fall-apart tender inside. Even with the stated leanness, the juice flow is so constant that I can't put this burger down on the paper plate's pool of drippings. The flavor isn't particularly beefy, but the other attributes carry it along nicely.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Toppings

 

The pimento cheese is more of a tight spread, closer to what you see in a Wispride crock than the foamy, lathery pimento toppings so popular right now. As such, it's more of an accent than key player. Pickles add more tartness than expected. Bacon is most prominent, with deep color and a strong cure flavor but no sweetness. All of it has just the right amount of crispness.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Fries (and such)

 

They don't have a fryer, so they don't do fries. "Smash Fries," served three to a pack, are a mash up (no pun intended) of hashbrowns and potato pancakes, studded with herbs and enough cheese to make it interesting but not so much that it gets all melty. Interesting for sure, but I'm not sure I'd get them again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Miscellany

 

This burger reminds me of the one at Casey's Diner in Natick, with a little extra. If you like that one, you'll like Wheelhouse too.

The speed is much appreciated. Eating out at lunchtime is a luxury, not a given, so it's nice to see they understand that small window to get there, order and eat before getting back to work or other business.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Bottom Line

 

The beef is expertly handled. There's nothing cheffy or upscale about this burger but there doesn't have to be; sometimes a simple burger, executed really well in friendly surroundings, is all you need. This is it.

 


 

 

 

 

 

Other Opinion/Info

 

Yelp reviews of Wheelhouse

Zomato reviews of Wheelhouse

Tabelog reviews of Wheelhouse

 

Wheelhouse Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato Wheelhouse

 

 

 

 

 

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A little shop on Broad Street.

 

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Over the counter ordering.

 

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The Pimento Burger.

 

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A closer look at the beef.

 

A Smash Fry. They come in a packet of three.

 

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Stool and counter dining.

 

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Antique condiment station.

 

 

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